Automatic machine embroidery

General information

Machine embroidery may be a special sort of embroidery, performed by special automatic machines, functioning consistent with the man’s adjusted program.
This man is designer, constructor. He creates the embroidery program (design) – the computer operation algorithm, which may be in consequence repeated unlimited number of times. The machine following the given program, automatically executes the embroidery on material. during this way, the most features of machine embroidery are the absence of manual labour at the stage of outright embroidery, and therefore the possibility of embroidery samples duplication. The machine embroidery may be a recent quite activity, in contrast to manual embroidery, existing for thousands of years. The machine embroidery began its existence nearly 50 years ago and in 1980-ies the demand of the profession of machine embroidery designer began to grow. Nowadays the demand is really also . During the amount of machine embroidery existence, its creation technology has changed beyond recognition. The machines that when used as source of data the punch card , limited in speed and quality of embroidery, were replaced by microprocessor-based, highly productive, multihead machines with advanced technology equipment, optimizing the embroidery process.

The process of machine embroidery technologically consists of two closely associated stages:

1. The embroidery designing stage, or the development stage of machine embroidery-represents the method of creation of embroidery machine program. At this stage are developed the development components of machine embroidery.
2. The technical stage represents the direct embroidery manufacture by means of machine. At this stage are developed the technical components of machine embroidery.

Both this stages are at an equivalent time quite independent from the purpose of view of manufacture, which helps to differentiate them and to mark off two different basic sorts of industrial activity accordingly. it’s an issue of enterprises that are specialized directly in program creation, or in materially embroidery creation. Each of those manufacture branches develops round itself a branching infrastructure system. for instance , nowadays there are an excellent number of producers of special program maintenance for machine embroidery, of embroidery machines and special concomitant equipment producers, of outlay materials producers, used for embroidery manufacture. Many companies, in accordance with machine embroidery branch needs are adjusting the directions of its activity. for instance , the producers of textile dye stuff make special adjustments of qualities and spectrum, the clothing producers change the development , adjusting it to the technology of machine embroidery manufacture.

Field of machine embroidery use

Historically the embroidery had, first of all, an ornamental character. Nowadays this essential property favorable affected its use in advertising branch. we often see the embroidery bearing advertising-informational character, on clothing objects and other ready-made garments.

Machine embroidery as advertising –informational bearer

Embroidery are often an efficient advertising-informational means, at an equivalent time without loosing its artistic expressiveness. it’s frequently used at trade marks plotting on the material , leather, felt, also as on complete products, clothes etc. At embroidery it’s possible the reproduction of trade mark of all color combination. The trade mark, plotted on by this method, frequently turns into fashionable attribute of article and becomes an organic element of its composition. it’s possible to embroider on differing types of garments , including uniform, working clothes. The embroidery as characteristic index to any current of activity is widely utilized in many countries. fairly often the firm workers bear the differential sign of their company. It are often a logotype on the top gear, on the front side of the sweater or on the rear side of the jacket.
The cloth embroidery, on many indexes passes before its “rivals”, like serigraphy or decal decoration (transfer seal). The embroidery is more lasting, the stableness of threads color is higher, the volumetric texture of embroidery confers costlier and spectacular shape to the logotype. that’s why most of the firms, handling advertising campaigns development, recommend to their clients the very embroidery. The embroidery are often performed on different parts of garments and on different articles. On head gears (caps, knitted caps), sport shirts, shirts, tolstovkas, even on footwear.

Technical constituent of machine embroidery

During the cycle of machine embroidery manufacturing is applied different means and tools. However, ranging from the supply of two basic stages of manufacture, it are often market two fundamental corresponding tools of machine embroidery. They are:

1. the pc with appropriate program maintenance and peripherals on the development stage of manufacture.
2. Automatic embroidery machine with concomitant supplementary equipment on the technological stage of manufacture.

Let us list the elemental information of commercial automatic embroidery machines and a few supplementary special concomitant equipment.
Industrial automatic embroidery machines consistent with fulfilled activity and principle of operation are often divided in two groups:
1. Universal automatic embroidery machines.
2. Special automatic embroidery machines.

To special automatic embroidery machines are often attributed the machines using almost standard embroidery methods, machines that are ready to perform embroidery on out-of-the-way places of complete products and on materials that are difficult for embroidery. to at least one of the foremost commonly used sort of special automatic embroidery machines are often attributed the so called Schiffli, machines that allow making embroidery with the use of decorative cord, to chop through material and at an equivalent time to process the cut by embroidery. These machines are mostly used for finishing of sunshine and thin, translucent, fashioned and other smart cloth and articles made out of it. as an example , Schiffli machines are often used at wedding dresses decoration.
Quite recently it appeared a replacement interesting quite automatic special embroidery-the so called no-thread-embroidery and automatic no-thread embroidery machines. The principle of operation of such machines features a remote conformity with principle of manufacturing of needle-punched fabrics. It consists within the incontrovertible fact that the machine with a group of needles (24 needles) runs through the structure of the most (working) material the locks of fibers of special auxiliary material. The auxiliary material is laid under the most material. After the auxiliary material removing on the most material remains an efficient , specific pattern (picture).
Nowadays the leader in production of no-thread embroidery machines is that the Japan Company Tanaka. In 2001 fashion show in Berlin and Paris were presented impressive collections made with the assistance of no-thread –embroidery on “Vari-O-Matic” machine of this company. To universal automatic embroidery machines are related the machines of lock-stitch with coordinate displaced frame holder which is supposed for manufacture of embroidery with threads on classical and most widespread materials and articles. the utilization of such machines supposes some limitations in properties of used materials and constructions of complete products.
But these limitations are constantly growing narrower thanks to constant modernization and improvement of universal automatic embroidery machines and thanks to use of manifold auxiliary facilities and special devices. All known universal automatic embroidery machines are of lock-stitch sort of machines and therefore the structure of the many parts of the mechanism has many similarities with lock-stitch embroidery machines.
The main parts of single-head universal automatic embroidery machine are column, case, frame holder and head. The case is fixed on column and consists of pole and cantilevered arm. Inside the upper a part of column is installed the stitch mechanism. Inside the case is installed the most shaft mechanism. On the top is disposed a group of needle mechanisms with thread takeup and thread guide mechanisms. the top is in a position to shift from case within the horizontal position, engaging with the most shaft stirring up the needed needle mechanism. this permits the machine to form the shift of the thread color at one embroidery run.
The frame holder mechanism during a position|is ready”> is in a position to shift the frame holder in a horizontal level in four directions from the active needle. The shift is formed in step-type on coordinate consistent with given embroidery program. during this way the machine can make loch-stitches on material of various length and in any given order and direction, executing if needed the shift of working needle with the thread of the definite color. the economic automatic embroidery machines are often both single-headed and with few heads and with corresponding number of necessary working mechanisms. The last are called many headed or multihead automatic embroidery machines.
Under normal conditions of embroidery all the heads and frame holders mechanisms works synchronously.

The basic indexes of commercial embroidery machines

1. Speed of embroidery. it’s expressed through quantity of stitches per minute. The embroidery speed are often adjusted both manually and automatically while embroidering. The optimal embroidery speed of recent machines oscillates between 700-900 stitches per minute. Maximum speed reaches 1200-1400 stitches per minute.

2. Number of working heads. In modern multihead machines the top numbers come to 2-4 heads.

3. the dimensions of working area or the utmost size of used frame. This index cares with possible size of performed embroidery. it’s expressed through correlation of length and width of the working area in millimeters and is regulated for flat and cylindrical frame (used for caps, sleeves, etc). There are spread the correlations 800×600, 500×400 and other-for flat frame; 360×75, 400×350 and other for cylindrical frame.

4. Needle quantity. it’s adequate to the amount of needles on one head. it’s defined by maximal possible number of thread colors used at one run of embroidery. The possible needle number in modern machines is from 1 to 12. the foremost spread are the machines with 9 needles. Other important indexes are the noise and vibration level, the compatibility of machine with different standard embroidery programs, the presence of accessories, error of linear measurements of embroidery elements.

The accessories are often presented through different additional hinged device for automatic let-off of decorative cord or ribbon, broadened control terminal, systems of laser and video navigation of working area, additional laser trimers (device for thread cutting) and other.

The concomitant equipment are often presented through devices of embroidery evaporation, various press equipment for adhesive chevron and braid production, special cloth-cutting machine within the sort of laser cutter-machines, which will automatically cut of or drift on markings on cloth, which is widely used at combined with embroidery applique’works production.

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